Pantalica of Italy
Pantalica is one of Sicily's
special hidden surprises. Just west of Syracuse, the rivers Anapo and
Calcinara converge in a spectacular limestone gorge in the Monti Iblei
hills. Admire it from the road along its upper edge before clambering
down through the trees to follow the disused railway track on the valley
floor.
Coming from Sortino, pass a wonderful, clear pool in the Calcinara,
shortly before it joins the Anapo at the wildest and most beautiful part
of the gorge, where eagles soar above. The gorge widens out to lush
fields and orchards of citrus, almonds, walnuts and even persimmon.
The spectacular, but harder way to explore Pantalica is to take the
straggling road from Ferla. Just before it ends in a precipice, a rough
track tumbles downhill to the Anaktoron - the remnants of the ancient
capital of King Hyblon, a king of the Sikels - Sicily's original
inhabitants. And this is Pantalica's real secret, for you
will pass over 5,000 tombs cut into the
limestone, part of a vast necropolis
developed between the thirteenth and
eighth centuries BC. The tombs were reused in the Byzantine era by refugees,
who carved deep into the rock to build
the church of San Micidario nearby.
Pantalica feels other-worldly and it is
hard to leave the breathtaking beauty
that frames the secrets of almost
forgotten civilizations.
