The city of
Siena
Siena is the classic image of
Tuscany. About an hour's drive south of Florence, it sits on the northern
edge of the Crete Senese, a landscape of soft, rounded hills bathed in
warm, golden light, the random geometry of flowing grain fields dotted
with cypress-shrouded farmsteads, fortified, medieval hilltop villages
and isolated ruins. Ruled by Etruscans, then Romans, controlled by the
Milanese Visconti family, then the Spanish and finally by Cosimo I de
Medici, Siena's history has been turbulent. Today, however, its tranquil
air of antiquity makes exploring it a delight. The Piazza del Campo is
one of the greatest squares in the world.
Dominated by the Romanasque
duomo (cathedral) at the top of the hill, the city's historic center is a
maze of little alleyways. Carved shadows mark every twist, opening
suddenly onto sunny squares and ancient churches. But everything radiates
from the enormous, scallop-shaped, Piazza del Campo in the center. One of
the greatest squares in the world, it is overlooked by the Palazzo
Pubblico and the soaring Torre del Mangia. Collectively, they are a
UNESCO World Heritage Site and represent a millennium of Siena's
cherished aspiration of independence and (not always successful)
democracy.
Twice a year, the Piazza del
Campo hosts the Palio, a frantic, bareback horse race round the cobbled
streets between the 17 wards of the city. Habitual calm is shattered by
rival processions, each a kaleidoscope of colorful medieval dress,
screeching bands driven by remoseless drums, and flags, tossed twisting
high above packed crowds. The furious excitement surrounding the tribal
rivalry of races is purely Sienese. These races have been run
continuously for at least 500 years, but based on earlier traditions,
they are part of Siena's living history.
Do visit the Palazzo Pubblico
and the Torre del Mangia, the duomo and the Museo dell'Opera del Duomo,
the Pinacoteca Nazionale, and the church of San Domenico. However, note
that there are entrance charges for most of the historic sites. You could
get to Siena by bus or rail from Florence, Rome or Milan.
