Cordoba
In 711 the Moors entered Spain
and by the middle of the century Cordoba was ruled by Abd Ar-Rahman, a
charismatic leader who set in train a building programme that
dramatically raised Cordoba's profile. By the tenth century it was the
most important city west of Constantinople, home to Andalucia's first
university and a library of more than 4,000 books.
The Great Mosque, known as the Mezquita, was originally built by Abd
Ar-Rahman, who was a great believer in religious tolerance. This is
particularly interesting in view of the fact that some 500 years later,
after the reconquest, Alfonso X decided to add a royal chapel. A little
over 100 years later, a second chapel was added, and about 150 years
after that, the Church decided to build a cathedral within the mosque as
well, destroying part of the original building.
Entering the mosque through the bronze-covered gateway, you find yourself
in the Patio de los Naranjos, a courtyard full of orange trees around a
pool where the faithful washed ritually before praying. Inside, the ranks
of terracotta-and-white striped arches march into the distance and the
beautifully decorated cupolas take your breath away. Make sure you see
the superb mihrab, or sacred prayer niche, with its amazing mosaic arch
and stone cupola shaped like a shell.
Walking away from the gateway, you will find yourself in the Juderia, the
medieval Jewish quarter, where the cobbled alleys are far too narrow to
accommodate cars. You can see little whitewashed houses and workshops
with beautiful wrought-ironwork and tiny fountains with water splashing
into beautiful basins of glazed ceramic tiles set in lovely patios.
To enter, there is an entrance
fee.
