Ely Cathedral, England's most awe-inspiring cathedral
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The magnificent ceilings of Ely
Cathedral |
Ely Cathedral is possibly
England's most awe-inspiring cathedral. Visible from miles around across
the flat fen country, it towers over the landscape and its nickname, The
Ship of the Fens, is very apt. St Etheldreda founded a Benedictine
monastery here in 673, on a clay island surrounded by boggy marshland,
which was sacked by the Danes 200 years later. The new monastery became
the center of resistance by Hereward the Wake against the Normans. In
1081, after the conquest, Abbot Simeon began the masterpiece of
Romanesque architecture that is the cathedral we see today.
As you enter the cathedral, you
look down the very long nave with its austere Romanesque arches and
Victorian painted ceiling towards the centerpiece of the building, the
unique octagonal lantern Tower built by Alan de Walsingham in 1322 to
replace the collapsed central tower. The tallest oaks in England were
used to support the 400 tons of glass and lead that form the starburst
lantern, surrounded by stunning fan vaulting. The Lady Chapel, built at
about the same time, also has an astonishing fan-vaulted and carved
ceiling, although much of the carving and statuary within easier reach on
the walls was defaced during the Reformation and Commonwealth. The choir
bays are also of interest - when the central tower collapsed it fell on
the choir and three of the bays were rebuilt at the same time as the
octagon, in contrast with the much plainer early English style of the
remainder. Both the Prior's Doorway and the Monks' Doorway boast lovely
Romanesque sculptures. There is so much to be seen in this marvelous
building that it is worth going out of your way to see it.
When visiting, check out the
Lantern Tower, which is the Stained Glass Museum and Wicken Fen. You
could reach Ely Cathedral by train or car from London, Cambridge or
Norwich.
